Preliminaries

Equipment | Clothing | Skis | Toe-Irons | Bindings | Ski Sticks | Steel Edges | Keeping Fit | The Start | Putting On Skis | Walking | Slope Walking | Slope Climbing | Changing Direction | Straight Descent | Falls + Rising | Snow Plough

Equipment

Once you have decided to learn how to ski you must turn your attention to the most important matter for beginners, advanced pupils and "big shots" alike—the equipment. The smallest mistake in your equipment or bad advice when buying it may mean all the difference between pleasure and misery, success or failure.

Clothing

The best advice I can give is that you should combine chic with utility. Unfortunately a great deal that appears chic serves no useful purpose but, on the other hand, to be practical does not necessarily mean that you must be inelegant. One only has to see how charming many of the girl-beginners look today on their " boards ".

Let us start from the feet upwards. The boots must fit as though the feet had been poured into them. When you buy a pair, try them on wearing a pair of thick and a pair of thin socks. Most boots give a little in the course of time, particularly those made of raw hide. For racing they must be secured so tightly that on reaching the goal they must immediately be unfastened. Let me say at once that a pair of ski boots can never be a comfortable pair of ballroom slippers. It is absolutely essential that the foot sit firmly in the boot so that one has a firm stance. How could the body obtain a firm contact with the ski if there were any play in the boot? It is very important that it should have a good, rigid sole, be completely waterproof and strong enough to hold a tight cable. The modern boot is always padded with indiarubber sponge at the spots where it might pinch. Should there still be some place where it pinches this must be put right at once so that this oversight does not ruin the pleasure of your whole holiday. Today there are several good ski boot-makers who produce excellent articles for both racing and pleasure ski-ing. Above all, see that you buy a pair made of first-class leather. The modern ski boots are very high, not particularly beautiful to look at but serve their purpose all the better for this, for since the boot already has a firm grip over the ankle the heel will not come away from the welt. The instep straps and additional lacings round the ankles are no longer necessary today, for the modem boot allows the ankle joint more play when bent forward.
Today it is taken for granted that you wear long, tapering trousers which prevent the snow from getting in the boots far better than the outmoded plus-fours. An important question today is whether to choose gaberdine or nylon. In recent years I have found nylon to be excellent. This material complies with all the demands of the fashion-conscious ladies. As regards colour, it is my personal opinion that white does not give enough contrast against the white background of snow. Today even the men wear the brightest possible colours. Naturally Mr. X, at his advanced age with a pot belly from good living and a very broad backside, should think twice before appearing on the slopes in a pair of pillar-box red trousers.

For the upper part of the body, apart from a warm vest, a pullover and an anorak or windcheater are essential. It is advisable when going on a tour to wear these garments since when the weather changes it is far better to have too much clothing than too little. Gloves must never be forgotten. The type with fingers are the smartest although in very cold weather, well-lined leather ski gloves are more comfortable and suit their purpose better. Even when it is warm you should never take off your gloves for the descent. The slightest fall can lead to very unpleasant grazes on your hands caused by brittle snow or hidden rocks.

The Skis

The shape of skis in the past few years has been greatly standardised. The very broad types have fallen out of favour. The skis on sale today are usually a combination model, a composite type which has developed from the slalom ski and the special downhill ski used in competitions. The measurements of this model range at the tips between 8.6 cm. and 9 cm., in the centre between 7 cm. and 7.4 cm. and at the heel between 7.8 cm. and 8.2 cm. Skis for ladies and children should be in proportion to their height and, above all, have plenty of elasticity. The shorter skis are usually far too rigid. The so-called short skis, which are very broad, I can really only recommend to elderly people (over sixty). To find the correct length of the skis, the ski should be stood upright and the tip must reach the palm of the hand when the arm is held up straight. For the casual skier with little money at his disposal a pair of ash skis is adequate. Today most skis are given a surface which protects the wood against wear and damp. These coatings are glued or spread on to the ski giving them good sliding properties so that today the question of waxing poses no undue difficulties. Naturally a well seasoned hickory ski with an upper edge, steel edge, etc., is still the best for the ordinary skier. I must mention here the new metal skis which have proved their worth in recent years. Their construction and, above all, their elasticity in deep snow and undulating terrain may eventually oust the wooden ski altogether.

Toe Irons

I do not bother with these any more. Although 80 per cent, of skiers still use toe irons the various safety bindings such as Skifree, Marker or Tirolya will certainly replace them in the next few years. Naturally I am all in favour of any possible safety measures which can be introduced into ski-ing to save broken limbs.

The Bindings

Just as important as good boots and good skis is the connection of the body via the boot to the ski. Everything that goes on in your brain, every reaction must travel this course as swift as lightning and the binding must therefore remain firm. Downhill skiers today use special long straps in order to secure their boots even more firmly. They may be of use but personally I have never found that they made much difference and, as a normal skier, you will find that a simple binding which helps you to have a good heel grip will be sufficient. Today there are also safety cables and levers so that when falling forwards, in other words under excess pressure which your Achilles tendon and muscles can no longer bear, you can come out of the binding. The Comet, the Tirolya and others possess these qualities. Torn Achilles tendons which have become more frequent in recent years are due to the overloading of modern bindings and can only be offset with safety bindings. The heel support is most important and prevents many falls since when you have too much weight forward it pulls you back into the right position. In a fall it holds the skis to the feet so that if they do not bore into the snow they remain in the normal position on the feet and do not thresh in the air.

Hellmut Lantschner       Toni Sailer

The inner boot should not be fastened too tight. The outer lacing regulates the firm set of the boot.

The ski must never be warped and must have central elasticity, but never too much! This is known as the nerve of the ski.

The ski should bend evenly like this.

The ski is too rigid: it bores!

Safety bindings open under excess pressure to the side or in front.

'The high boot with its mobility in the ankle joint and ankle support.

The hand is inserted into the loop from below, cave being takcn that it is not twisted.

The broad, efficient loop held correctly.
 
Loosely and easily skis glide on a parallel course driven forward by firm steps and thrusts of the slicks.

It is a joy to swing easily in this way through the immaculate whiteness of the mountain landscape.
1. In direct climb up the hill.

2. The stationary knee is bent slightly inwards; the other leg is lifted firmly in the air so that
 
The uphill ski preserves the direction of climb while the downhill ski accompanies it horizontally, preventing anv backsliding.

Ski running on a sleep slope I. The skis lie Hat in spate. In this way the edge will grip on the steepest slope and in the most difficult terrain. Never bend your knees towards the slope.
 
3. the rear ends do not hamper each other. The sticks are a powerful aid.

2. The skis are not quite (lat They are slightly on the slant and are already beginning to slide. Good practice for acquiring a fine skiing instinct.

1. The kick turn towards the slope: downhill ski firm on the ground; the Sticks help to preserve balance; the uphill ski is swung out high to the fore, placed next to the point of the downhill ski and then turned on its end.

2. Now the whole weight is on the uphill ski which lies in a position where il cannot slide away.

3. The downhill ski knee is lifted high (above all on a steep slope) anil the ski placed alongside.

4. The reverse: the weight is once more taken on the turned ski which must not be allowed to slide away.

lie reverse turn is of little radical use but serves to strengthen the muscles and news.

1. The downhill ski is swung over the uphill ski and its end placed next to the point of the latter.
2. The weight is transferred to the uphill ski.
3. Now the end of the downhill ski is turned high round the point and then the point taken out of the snow.

4. The ski is placed next to the other.
Comment:

Why do it the easy way when you can make it nice and complicated?

The turn away from the slope is useful on a steep slope.

1. 1 he slicks act as supports on the slope. I he weight is placed on the u pit ill ski.

2. Downhill ski turns.

3. Placed firmly on the snow and the uphill ski brought round into position.

In a straight descent the skis run parallel, a hand's breadth apart, knees bent, upper pan of the body forward. Sticks to the side held firmly to keep your balance. The greater the speed the further forward the body and the further bent the knees!

Skis held flat, knees slightly bent, the points a hand's breadth apart.

The ends of the skis wide angled, the weight of the body between the skis.

Snow Plough Turns.

Exercise to see whether you have mastered the snow plough (track).

1. A basic exercise in ski running. Snow plough position is [lie basic position through the entire turn.

2. The weight- is always between the skis (The turn in heavy snow).

3. Now left shoulder, left knee and left ski thrust slightly forward.

4. Followed by right shoulder, right knee and right ski forward.

In this was one turn after the other ensues.

1. Ready! Weight on the downhill ski. Slope ski forward!

2. Shoulder back—stem!
 
3- Stem still further.

4. Raise the body, turn.

5. Turn. Lay the weight on the downhill ski.
 
6. The weight is on the downhill is the uphill ski is flat and passes it.

7- Turn (he knee out, press the heel inwards and observe your track!
 
8. Not until the final position is t! turn ended and the next turn begins.

Practicing the Vorlage gives you a feeling of the strength of the heel spring and of how far you can lean forward without falling on your face.

1. Snow plough position.

2. The shoulder goes back to enter the swing.

3. The body comes a little forward and is raised.

4. Forward, raise inner ski to the lore turn—swing.

5. Knees loose, with the shoulder rotation swing out flat on the turn.

6. Swing final position in which you remain until you stop and the swing is finished.

1. Observe the order for the individual phases. It always holds good. Down you go!

2. Shoulder back!

3. Stem out!

4. Forwards. Rise to weight! Swing the shoulders! Inner ski to the fore.

5. Down: bend the knees and swing out!

The Jump Christiana and its track.

The Sticks

The ski stick belongs to ski-ing as the arm to the body and can be considered as a balance pole. When buying sticks it is a good thing to see that the loops are broad, for the whole weight of the body in walking on the flat and climbing hangs on these loops. A thin strap, such as is often sold to the novice in the sports shops, will cut into your wrists. The stick usually sold today is of steel. It has a longer life than the Tonkin cane and is more reliable. The length of the stick should reach precisely to the armpits. I can recommend the rubber basket as being the best.

Steel Edges

When buying a pair of skis see that these run from the ends to the tips. Long experience has proved the absolute necessity of the steel edge even for beginners. The fairy tale that you can easily cut off your leg with steel edges has never seriously been believed. For the wooden ski the old Lettner steel edge is still the best. It is important that the edge should protrude so that when it becomes blunt it can be resharpened several times. Today, children's skis are equipped with steel edges as a matter of course. The elasticity of the points is not impaired in the least by steel edges for they are constructed expressly to be flexible.

Keeping Fit

Any type of sport that you practise seriously during the summer is good training for ski-ing. A well-exercised and lithe body very soon adapts itself to the movements of ski running. The novice in particular who uses up a great deal of energy in all his movements will find it to his advantage to be in good condition. It is immaterial whether you take a dry ski course or prepare yourself with ski gymnastics or rush about the place on roller skates. All these preparations strengthen the muscles and give you some feeling for the movements you will be using in ski-ing. You must not imagine that you are a " big shot" if you have completed your dry course satisfactorily, for conditions in the mountains and in deep snow are very different. Jumping exercises are preferable, for to be able to react quickly and to have supple ankle joints are the first demands that ski-ing makes on you. Everyone can spare a few minutes each morning for physical exercises. It is incredible how out of training, out of condition and flabby many people arrive on the ski-ing slopes after the long summer. What is the result? In high spirits they hurtle down the first slope forgetting that they have neglected their sinews and muscles. An insignificant fall can often result in the straining of a sinew.

The Start

In ski-ing, as in everything else, the start is always difficult. Nevertheless everyone should have a try. You are never too old and it will be a matter of pride to reach a certain standard of proficiency unless you do not care for this winter sport at all. Go first of all to a ski teacher so that later you will not have to reproach yourself for the faults that you have picked up on your own and which later you will have to remedy. Have 100 per cent, confidence in your teacher, for he teaches according to a plan which has been developed from the experience of hundreds of other teachers on the nursery slopes, on tours and difficult runs in the mountains. So when you tramp for the first time through the snow with the " boards" on your shoulders, it should be to the ski teacher. For this is the only right path.

You are now the possessor of a decent pair of skis with good safety binding, glittering metal sticks with broad loops and good baskets, not to forget your smart ski-ing trousers, warm pullover and the essential gloves. Everything is in order and you can begin!

Putting on the Skis

Place your skis flat on the ground so that they cannot slide either forwards or backwards. Clean the soles of your boots, thrust the boot into the safety binding, the cable goes backwards over the curve of the heel and the lever is closed in front. If it is difficult to close, use both hands. Now fasten the additional strap which is part and parcel of safety bindings, because it is very easy to lose a ski after a fall.

Walking

Progress on skis on level ground should be a gliding movement. The one ski glides forward about a hand's breadth from and parallel to the second ski. Nothing must be cramped. Each movement must be supple and at each step you must see that the points of the ski are carried forward at exactly the same distance apart from each other. The sticks, which you are now holding correctly by the loops so that they lie comfortably in the hand, are an aid both to thrust yon forward and to keep your balance. The stick is kept parallel to the body and thrust into the snow between the most advanced and hindmost point of the gliding movement of the ski.

Here the holding of the stick in ski-ing corresponds to the ordinary forward movement in normal walking. The hands hang down normally to the sides slightly away from the legs. From this fundamental position the sticks are held firmly in the hand and moved loosely a little to one side. In ski-ing the hands are kept loose with the sticks to one side, in ether words the elbow is a little bent. When one hand goes forward the other hand makes the compensating movement to the rear.

Walking on a Slope

Here, above all, a rule which is the basis of all ski-ing must be observed. On the slope the ski must be kept flat. By this we mean not flat on the ground but flat in space. Here we see for the first time the importance of the firm connection between boots and ski because when the surface is hard you have to slide on the edge in order to keep the ski flat. On a steep slope you must never lean the weight of your body in towards the slope. Firstly, this would be a sign of fear and, secondly, the skis would slide outwards. This can never happen if the weight is transferred away from the slope as is essential in modern ski-ing. The body is always kept perpendicular to the skis. In the latest Austrian technique, however, there is some talk of bending away from the slope. Personally, I never give it a thought. Just imagine the position. Why should I bend my body? I stand in a far more natural and therefore correct position on my skis if I stand erect.

Climbing a Slope

The quickest way (apart from taking a ski lift) to climb a slope,, and also the most exhausting, is the herring-bone step which can only be used for small climbs. The points of the skis are angled as far outwards as possible, edges and knees pressed inwards to the slope, the ends alternately being lifted as high as possible and splayed to their full extent so that on landing the end of the other ski will not be touched. The sticks remain behind the body as points of support.

Another way of climbing a slope is as follows: The uphill ski slides outwards at not too steep an angle while the downhill ski is kept horizontal, accompanying it step by step so that backsliding is impossible.

For longer climbs or ski tours climbing skins or wax are recommended. On tours the climbing track should be consistent, and not taken too steeply so that the people who come afterwards slide backwards. So remember when you climb a hill that others are following you. Do not go straight up the slope, but take a pride in hearing your comrades behind saying that the track has been well laid.

Changing Direction

There are many ways of carrying out a 180° change of direction from a standstill. The simplest of these turns is the kick turn facing away from the slope. This should be practised on level ground beginning with a turn to the right. Right stick to the right ski end, left stick to the left ski point. With a swing the right ski is now lifted high in front so that the ski end can rest upright on the snow close to the left ski point. After steadying, the right ski is turned until it is parallel to the left ski in the opposite direction and placed on the ground. Now the whole weight is on the right ski which must naturally remain firm; the left knee is now raised energetically and the left ski brought into position. With this sharp raising and replacing of the left ski, the left stick, which so far has only been used for the balance, must follow suit. The most important points of the kick turn towards the slope, then, are as follows: the ski taking the weight must remain absolutely firm, the placing together of the skis, the raising of the knee and the ski points must be carried out energetically or else the points—particularly on a steep slope—would get stuck in the snow. This turn must be practised time and time again.

On your turns try not to get giddy and do not carry them out sloppily for you will only cheat yourself. Precision in carrying out the movements saves effort but proficiency will only be achieved after long practice and concentration.

The various types of stationary turn help to strengthen the sinews and muscles and to make them resist strains which can occur on the slightest fall.

The Straight Descent or Schuss

And now for the first small schuss!

Look for a small hill which is not too steep and flattens out at the bottom. Do not be too ambitious because you may fall. You should always bear one principle in mind: always risk a little less than you think you are capable of. People who think they know everything and rush at it like a bull at a gate may take your breath away. They may be lucky a number of times but one day they will come to grief. You are learning to ski and not to come a cropper. It is a good thing to try and return home at the end of your holiday with all your bones intact. So I repeat: use your head and don't take unnecessary risks.

On the other hand you should not make matters more difficult for your teacher by displaying too much cowardice. Finally, every ski teacher knows what he can ask of his pupil and the responsibility he has to take, so if a competent teacher asks you to do something you should obey him with complete confidence. He knows exactly what you can do and will not ask any more of you. The presumption naturally being that you learn with a good and responsible teacher.

So you are standing on your little hill and ready to make your first schuss. Your bindings are in order, your boots well laced and everything shipshape. Your skis are parallel with a hand's breadth between them. Knees and ankle joints bent and you will feel how firmly the heel spring grips. The upper part of the body is bent slightly forward parallel to your lower leg. Your eyes are directed on the fall line, the body is relaxed despite its concentration for only a relaxed muscle is capable of reacting swiftly enough when you lose your balance slightly. The sticks, as we have already explained, are held out sideways and accompany you like the wings of an aircraft. Now shove off with your sticks and you begin your first straight descent.

You come down without a hitch and now you return up the slope in herringbone step and you can afford to make a slightly more daring descent. Now go on practising until you have gained confidence and can keep your skis parallel and together. When you feel completely sure of yourself try and bring your skis even closer together and run with one of the skis about ten inches ahead of the other.
Today the emphasis is on a narrow track. Look at the track you have made to see whether the skis have run parallel and if the track is as clear as a line drawn by a pencil.

Falls and Rising to Your Feet

I have used the word falls because you must never risk a bad crash. Should one seem unavoidable it is best to make a closer acquaintanceship with the snow and use the " rear brakes ". Nothing very serious can happen if you slide down on your backside. If you land comfortably in the snow don't struggle like a wild beast to get up too quickly so that no one shall see your fall. It is no disgrace to fall. No ready made champion has ever yet appeared. If you try and get up too quickly you waste too much energy and you won't do it correctly. As a start the skis must be placed so that in no circumstances can they slide away—in other words at right angles to the slope. Then struggle slowly to your feet. In deep snow where you have sunk up to the arms, use your sticks to help you up. So, as I have already said, always get up calmly. Many people who live in the city and are out of condition are not in a position to carry out such energetic movements very quickly.

Above all, I must mention here, get it into your head: try and learn to ski without falling, for every fall entails a possible danger.

The Snow Plough

The tails of the skis are kept fiat and splayed as far outwards as possible. The body assists this procedure by downward pressure since the ankle joints and the knees are pushed forward in the direction of the skis. It is important that the distance between the points of the skis remain the same. In this position the skis run flat and can slide. Elasticity in the ankle joints and knees, with the skis kept flat on the snow, allow the snow plough to be carried out even in bumpy terrain. Here practice makes perfect and you soon get the feeling as to how the ski surfaces must travel over the ground. The ankles and knees must do their work. That at times the ski will not be entirely flat on the ground, and occasionally you must bring more pressure to bear on the edge, does not matter for the terrain and the speed demand this from time to time. Nevertheless, in principle, you must abide by the rule we have given. In the snow plough, as I have mentioned, the ankles and the knees play the most important part. In no circumstances must they be held stiff. It is important that the upper part of the body should be kept loose and capable of reaction. Travelling is done with the legs. The snow plough on a steep slope is far mote difficult, demands great strength and to relieve the strain you must lean a little further back. The snow plough is one of the most important exercises in ski-ing because from it the whole remaining technique develops

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